(SOMA Magazine)
Biography
Thom Browne, a 21st century designer, was born in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 1965. As a teenager, Browne had no fashion interest or experience. He stated that he “ didn’t know that fashion could be a career” (Murg). Browne graduated with a business degree from the University of Norte Dame. After struggling to peruse in job for business, he set on a journey to Hollywood as an actor. Spending a large amount of time in California, he sold his car to fly out back to the east to New York. He worked with a man who has been a tailor for over 60 years (SOMA). He then worked with Giorgio Armani at the showroom that landed him to work with Ralph Lauren at club Monaco.
He then left on 2001, to start his own label. Browne introduced his first ready-to-wear line and his known suits that were hand cut by a New York Factory. He soon was recognized after he won a mentorship as a CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund. He also was nominated for the CFDA menswear Designer of the year (Vougepedia). The black fleece held a showcase of Browne’s designs including his first women’s wear pieces. After growing tremendously, he found himself licensing companies to create personalized accessories, such as, unisex-framed eyewear. On April 2012, he became the first American designer to show fashion week in St. Petersburg, Russia (VoguePedia).
As his legend still lives, Thom Browne has decided to open is first international store in Tokyo, Japan in March 2013 (Voguepedia). The Thom Browne label is now sold in 123 stores for men’s and 40 for women’s (Larocca). He currently designs to collaboration labels, Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers, and Moncler Gamme Bleu.
Critical Analysis
Thom Browne influence has left a remarkable influence in this current 21st century. Browne’s brand is rooted in conservative gray flannel suits, fringed skirts, spiked balaclavas, and mink merkins. Short pants and shrunken silhouette, the classical gray suit, has always been Browne’s repertoire. More ideologically, it was a simple way to provoke a reaction from viewers. Browne grew up wearing navy blazers with khakis in the summer and grey flannel in the winter. This drew him to be drawn into this particular aesthesis of suit design. Amy Laroccca, reporter of New York Magazine, stated that he is “ cutting-edge men’s designer who is going to have the suit from extinction” (Larocca). The most important element in Browne’s designs is the timeless effect.
Browne’s designs exude a sense of reminiscence, which is paired with state-of-the-art fashion design and the lookout for the future yet to come (Bee, Rankin). An examination of American elegance, the clothing is not about transplanting mid-century spirits into a contemporary context, but rather about purifying the underlying aesthetics and transforming designers into the 21st century terminology. Thom Browne’s designs are obscene for a zeitgeist that tries to find expressions of contemporary elements inspired by the past designers. “Many things inspire me. Often times they are people I see on the street. Its not only how they dress but their presence and attitude” responded Browne as he was questioned by Time.
Thom Browne, a 21st century designer, was born in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 1965. As a teenager, Browne had no fashion interest or experience. He stated that he “ didn’t know that fashion could be a career” (Murg). Browne graduated with a business degree from the University of Norte Dame. After struggling to peruse in job for business, he set on a journey to Hollywood as an actor. Spending a large amount of time in California, he sold his car to fly out back to the east to New York. He worked with a man who has been a tailor for over 60 years (SOMA). He then worked with Giorgio Armani at the showroom that landed him to work with Ralph Lauren at club Monaco.
He then left on 2001, to start his own label. Browne introduced his first ready-to-wear line and his known suits that were hand cut by a New York Factory. He soon was recognized after he won a mentorship as a CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund. He also was nominated for the CFDA menswear Designer of the year (Vougepedia). The black fleece held a showcase of Browne’s designs including his first women’s wear pieces. After growing tremendously, he found himself licensing companies to create personalized accessories, such as, unisex-framed eyewear. On April 2012, he became the first American designer to show fashion week in St. Petersburg, Russia (VoguePedia).
As his legend still lives, Thom Browne has decided to open is first international store in Tokyo, Japan in March 2013 (Voguepedia). The Thom Browne label is now sold in 123 stores for men’s and 40 for women’s (Larocca). He currently designs to collaboration labels, Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers, and Moncler Gamme Bleu.
Critical Analysis
Thom Browne influence has left a remarkable influence in this current 21st century. Browne’s brand is rooted in conservative gray flannel suits, fringed skirts, spiked balaclavas, and mink merkins. Short pants and shrunken silhouette, the classical gray suit, has always been Browne’s repertoire. More ideologically, it was a simple way to provoke a reaction from viewers. Browne grew up wearing navy blazers with khakis in the summer and grey flannel in the winter. This drew him to be drawn into this particular aesthesis of suit design. Amy Laroccca, reporter of New York Magazine, stated that he is “ cutting-edge men’s designer who is going to have the suit from extinction” (Larocca). The most important element in Browne’s designs is the timeless effect.
Browne’s designs exude a sense of reminiscence, which is paired with state-of-the-art fashion design and the lookout for the future yet to come (Bee, Rankin). An examination of American elegance, the clothing is not about transplanting mid-century spirits into a contemporary context, but rather about purifying the underlying aesthetics and transforming designers into the 21st century terminology. Thom Browne’s designs are obscene for a zeitgeist that tries to find expressions of contemporary elements inspired by the past designers. “Many things inspire me. Often times they are people I see on the street. Its not only how they dress but their presence and attitude” responded Browne as he was questioned by Time.
Future Analysis
His whimsical and flamboyant creations overcome the fear of men who are afraid to wear skirts, short shorts, yellow raincoats, and the acceptance of fashionable men. I believe Thom Browne’s designs to be flawless, inspiring, and sophisticated. Thom Browne’s determination to be fearful and unique in the fashion industry has led him to a successful businessman and designer. As a relatively new designer, he hasn’t been able to influence many designers unlike past designers. Overtime, I believe Browne’s designs will believe and inspire upcoming designers.
His trademark plaid prints and signature colors, red, white, blue, and grey, were translated into his future collections. His signature aesthesis lead him to a concept of maintaining the sophisticated and young flare he has incorporated into all of his garments. One of his most memorable Garments designed for Michelle Obama (image above) was a humbling and prideful achievement, according to Thom Browne (Moss). This outfit has been designed for the Monday’s inauguration festivities for which the first lady has worn. This outfit was inspired by a menswear necktie to show the resemblance of powerful women. Browne stated that he was surprised to see the first lady walk out with it on Inauguration day. He wasn’t sure she would favor it (CBSNEWS).
With his new collections, he incorporated a futuristic and modern design to both men’s and women’s wear. With this drastic change, he focused his aesthetics to the neutral colors of gray, black, and, white. This has transitioned Browne viewpoint of what components lead to a successful designer. “As a designer, I’m supposed to be provoking people’s reactions, and getting people to see things differently. I think more of us should be doing this” (Murg).
His whimsical and flamboyant creations overcome the fear of men who are afraid to wear skirts, short shorts, yellow raincoats, and the acceptance of fashionable men. I believe Thom Browne’s designs to be flawless, inspiring, and sophisticated. Thom Browne’s determination to be fearful and unique in the fashion industry has led him to a successful businessman and designer. As a relatively new designer, he hasn’t been able to influence many designers unlike past designers. Overtime, I believe Browne’s designs will believe and inspire upcoming designers.
His trademark plaid prints and signature colors, red, white, blue, and grey, were translated into his future collections. His signature aesthesis lead him to a concept of maintaining the sophisticated and young flare he has incorporated into all of his garments. One of his most memorable Garments designed for Michelle Obama (image above) was a humbling and prideful achievement, according to Thom Browne (Moss). This outfit has been designed for the Monday’s inauguration festivities for which the first lady has worn. This outfit was inspired by a menswear necktie to show the resemblance of powerful women. Browne stated that he was surprised to see the first lady walk out with it on Inauguration day. He wasn’t sure she would favor it (CBSNEWS).
With his new collections, he incorporated a futuristic and modern design to both men’s and women’s wear. With this drastic change, he focused his aesthetics to the neutral colors of gray, black, and, white. This has transitioned Browne viewpoint of what components lead to a successful designer. “As a designer, I’m supposed to be provoking people’s reactions, and getting people to see things differently. I think more of us should be doing this” (Murg).
(StyleSight) (Vougepedia) (Larocca)
WORKS CITED
Bee, Deborah, and Rankin. Couture in the 21st Century. London: A. & C. Black, 2010. Print.
CBSNEWS. "Thom Browne on Michelle Obama's Inauguration Outfit." CBSNews. CBS Interactive, 21 Jan. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
Larocca, Amy. "New York Magazine." NYMag.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
Moss, Hilary. "Michelle Obama Wears Thom Browne to Inauguration." The Cut. N.p., 12 Jan. 2013. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
Murg, Stephanie. "Quote of Note | Thom Browne." - UnBeige. N.p., 04 Sept. 2009. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne | SOMA Magazine." SOMA Magazine RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne." - Voguepedia. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014 - Videofashion." YouTube. YouTube, 11 Sept. 2013. Web. 11 Dec. 2013.
Bee, Deborah, and Rankin. Couture in the 21st Century. London: A. & C. Black, 2010. Print.
CBSNEWS. "Thom Browne on Michelle Obama's Inauguration Outfit." CBSNews. CBS Interactive, 21 Jan. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
Larocca, Amy. "New York Magazine." NYMag.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
Moss, Hilary. "Michelle Obama Wears Thom Browne to Inauguration." The Cut. N.p., 12 Jan. 2013. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
Murg, Stephanie. "Quote of Note | Thom Browne." - UnBeige. N.p., 04 Sept. 2009. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne | SOMA Magazine." SOMA Magazine RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne." - Voguepedia. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
"Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014 - Videofashion." YouTube. YouTube, 11 Sept. 2013. Web. 11 Dec. 2013.