(NNBD)
Biography
George Barbier, the father of the Art-Deco movement, was born in Nantes, France in 1882. He established himself as an astounding illustrator and applied himself through the Ecole des Beaux- Arts (Barbier). This opportunity resulted in close ties to various influential social circles. Pierre Brissaud, Paul Iribe, and Georges Lepape were all connected with Barbier by the time of his graduation. Barbier did not settle into his career until his late thirties. Despite his late entry he quickly gained status and showed major leverage in haute couture. He unconventionally did not own a functioning house as prominent colleagues such as Coco Chanel did. Barbier was an avid member of the Societe des Artistes Decoratuers. This social ticket was helpful in dispersing his design ideology. His diverse design collection included jewellery, fabrics, wallpaper, book illustration, and article illustration for major newspapers.
Critical Analysis
Barbier brought qualities to women’s fashion that had yet to be seen by the world at that time. Seductive designs matched with elegant detailing were at the focal point of Barbiers efforts. Barbier had an affinity for headdresses. He detailed them with crystals and layered beaded necklaces. Barbier illustrations included designs and settings.
The zeitgeist of this time, WWII and exotic trade with the East at the French Port, influenced Barbier's use of rich fabrics, products from the East (Morris). The young women he displayed were often dancing and mingling in large gothic style mansions and stately chateaus. Men in professional attire were occasionally present in his drawings, but were never the focus. Contemporary illustrated books became a popular normality in France around the turn of the century. After WWII, Barbier began designing costumes for theater along with another designer, Erté (Alford, Stegemeyer 28). Barbier released a series of drawings in 1913 of Nijnsky, the athletic idol of the Ballets Russes. His costume and decor designs were featured in Josephine Baker’s ‘Bird of Forrest’(a tableaux featured at the Casino de Paris). Barbier’s reputable designs caught the eyes of Rudolph Valentino and his wife Natacha Rombova after being exhibited in a production of Casanova. He was promptly hired for their first film Monsieur Beaucaire (Morris).
George Barbier, the father of the Art-Deco movement, was born in Nantes, France in 1882. He established himself as an astounding illustrator and applied himself through the Ecole des Beaux- Arts (Barbier). This opportunity resulted in close ties to various influential social circles. Pierre Brissaud, Paul Iribe, and Georges Lepape were all connected with Barbier by the time of his graduation. Barbier did not settle into his career until his late thirties. Despite his late entry he quickly gained status and showed major leverage in haute couture. He unconventionally did not own a functioning house as prominent colleagues such as Coco Chanel did. Barbier was an avid member of the Societe des Artistes Decoratuers. This social ticket was helpful in dispersing his design ideology. His diverse design collection included jewellery, fabrics, wallpaper, book illustration, and article illustration for major newspapers.
Critical Analysis
Barbier brought qualities to women’s fashion that had yet to be seen by the world at that time. Seductive designs matched with elegant detailing were at the focal point of Barbiers efforts. Barbier had an affinity for headdresses. He detailed them with crystals and layered beaded necklaces. Barbier illustrations included designs and settings.
The zeitgeist of this time, WWII and exotic trade with the East at the French Port, influenced Barbier's use of rich fabrics, products from the East (Morris). The young women he displayed were often dancing and mingling in large gothic style mansions and stately chateaus. Men in professional attire were occasionally present in his drawings, but were never the focus. Contemporary illustrated books became a popular normality in France around the turn of the century. After WWII, Barbier began designing costumes for theater along with another designer, Erté (Alford, Stegemeyer 28). Barbier released a series of drawings in 1913 of Nijnsky, the athletic idol of the Ballets Russes. His costume and decor designs were featured in Josephine Baker’s ‘Bird of Forrest’(a tableaux featured at the Casino de Paris). Barbier’s reputable designs caught the eyes of Rudolph Valentino and his wife Natacha Rombova after being exhibited in a production of Casanova. He was promptly hired for their first film Monsieur Beaucaire (Morris).
Future Trend Analysis
Barbier’s vast illustration collection were a clear and vivid tie to the overwhelming Art Deco scene of the 1920’s. Social movements including Fauvism, Futurism, and Cubism were strongly compatible with the progression of fashion. Barbier’s style innovations such as intricate embroideries and dimensional floral patterns were extractions from ancient cultural traditions and various folk art pieces. These floral patterns were influenced in many garments created by designer, Diane Von Furstenberg (image on left). Barbier’s style aligned with the lively disposition of Leon Basket and was reminiscent of Aubrey Beardsley modest line and color orientation. As a designer for theatre, Barbier influenced the industry by introducing flashy and seductive ' Las Vegas' garments, which are still used in many productions. For example, Ken Russell, film director who sadly passed away in 2011, was influenced by Barbier's illustration but has modernized the costumes (image on right) (IMDb). His inventive trend fusion has lasted the test of time and can be recognized in design tendencies through much of the 20th century.
Hand drawn illustrations began to be replaced by photographs as the fashion industry shifted into the modern technological age. Barbier’s influence in applicable arts and fine arts were a leading factor in the merging of the fashion industry with its apt kin art. Barbier’s longstanding design persists in common fashion choices of today's youth. Sharp trigonometric fabric design and vintage accessory preferences have been evolving quickly as millennial flood fashion with new ideas. Barbier’s conceptions will continue to influence young designers as the fashion spectrum develops.
Barbier’s vast illustration collection were a clear and vivid tie to the overwhelming Art Deco scene of the 1920’s. Social movements including Fauvism, Futurism, and Cubism were strongly compatible with the progression of fashion. Barbier’s style innovations such as intricate embroideries and dimensional floral patterns were extractions from ancient cultural traditions and various folk art pieces. These floral patterns were influenced in many garments created by designer, Diane Von Furstenberg (image on left). Barbier’s style aligned with the lively disposition of Leon Basket and was reminiscent of Aubrey Beardsley modest line and color orientation. As a designer for theatre, Barbier influenced the industry by introducing flashy and seductive ' Las Vegas' garments, which are still used in many productions. For example, Ken Russell, film director who sadly passed away in 2011, was influenced by Barbier's illustration but has modernized the costumes (image on right) (IMDb). His inventive trend fusion has lasted the test of time and can be recognized in design tendencies through much of the 20th century.
Hand drawn illustrations began to be replaced by photographs as the fashion industry shifted into the modern technological age. Barbier’s influence in applicable arts and fine arts were a leading factor in the merging of the fashion industry with its apt kin art. Barbier’s longstanding design persists in common fashion choices of today's youth. Sharp trigonometric fabric design and vintage accessory preferences have been evolving quickly as millennial flood fashion with new ideas. Barbier’s conceptions will continue to influence young designers as the fashion spectrum develops.
(The Birth Of Art Deco - Barbier)
WORKS CITED
Alford, Holly Price., and Anne Stegemeyer. "George Barbier." Who's Who in Fashion. New York: Fairchild, 2010. 28. Print.
Barbier, George. George Barbier: The Birth of Art Deco. Ed. Barbara Martorelli. Venice: Marsilio, 2008. Print.
Morris, Roderick C. "Forgotten Art of French Illustrator George Barbier Is Rediscovered at Fortuny Museum Show." NY Times. N.p., 14 Nov. 2008. Web. 5 Dec. 2013.
"Biography." IMDb. IMDb.com, n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
"George Barbier." NNBD. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
"George Barbier - Art Deco." YouTube. YouTube, 23 May 2011. Web. 11 Dec. 2013.
Alford, Holly Price., and Anne Stegemeyer. "George Barbier." Who's Who in Fashion. New York: Fairchild, 2010. 28. Print.
Barbier, George. George Barbier: The Birth of Art Deco. Ed. Barbara Martorelli. Venice: Marsilio, 2008. Print.
Morris, Roderick C. "Forgotten Art of French Illustrator George Barbier Is Rediscovered at Fortuny Museum Show." NY Times. N.p., 14 Nov. 2008. Web. 5 Dec. 2013.
"Biography." IMDb. IMDb.com, n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
"George Barbier." NNBD. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013.
"George Barbier - Art Deco." YouTube. YouTube, 23 May 2011. Web. 11 Dec. 2013.